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Saturday, September 25, 2010

Nerf Barricade - Mod Guide!

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Barricade.

Mods covered:
- Voltage Increase
- Trigger Activated Power On
- Flywheel Width Adjustment
- Stefan Compatibility

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!


:: Voltage Increase ::

As the Barricade is a flywheel based blaster, the faster the flywheel motors spin the faster foam darts get fired out, hence longer range and faster dart velocity.

To increase the speed of the motors, simply increase the voltage feed.


In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Barricades. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores or online sites.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use 2 of them with a dummy AA battery in the 3rd battery slot. This configuration provides 8.4 Volts of power to the Barricade's motors.



With 8.4 Volts of power, the Barricade's motors spin much faster and the start-up response time is also quicker.

See the test fire video below for the range results based on this increased voltage.

I have also tested it with 3 x fully charged unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion rechargeable batteries with a total of 12.6 Volts, but the motors did not move. Therefore, it seems that 12.6 Volts from unprotected Li-Ion batteries is perhaps over the limits of its inbuilt safety thermistor, due to the higher discharge rates and voltage of these batteries.

Note that normal Alkaline batteries have limited discharge rates, and may therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to these unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion batteries.


:: Trigger Activated Power On ::

Stock Barricades require their motors to be separately switched on, then constantly running to be able to fire.... but the motors will still be spinning even when its not firing anything!

This creates an incredibly annoying constant buzzing sound that has put off many players from using Barricades, not to mention the added power drain on the batteries.

I've worked out a way to solve this issue by installing a pressure switch which would be activated by the trigger pull instead.

Interestingly, the stock Nerf Barricade already has a pressure switch included for modders to use... its just under the original On/Off switch!


Step 1: Open the internal cover to the On/Off switch and you will find a pressure switch. Remove it and detach it from the circuit.




Step 2: Locate the area directly under the trigger, cut a slot around the size of the pressure switch and make sure it is aligned so that the trigger will be able to slide properly over the pressure switch.

Use the cut-out piece of plastic to make a ledge, this will serve as a holder for the pressure switch.




Step 3: Glue the pressure switch onto the plastic ledge and make sure it is positioned properly to allow the trigger to slide over it and depress the switch smoothly.

Connect the pressure switch to the circuit with some additional wiring.



Solder all the parts and wires together and wrap electrical tap on all exposed wiring.

This is how the new circuit should look like.



Thats it! Now your Barricade motors will only spin when you want to fire it.

The key to efficient usage is to simply pull the trigger a quarter way to get the motors spinning. As the motors start-up response time is much faster at higher voltage feeds, its just a split second before you can fire shots continuously.

With abit of practice, you'll be able to use it as a quick draw sidearm!

After firing, just release the trigger and the motors will stop spinning. No more constant buzzing when not firing! :)

Although the original On/Off switch is now no longer functional, it still acts as a useful trigger "safety" lock. So you can slide it forward to prevent accidental trigger pulls.


:: Flywheel Width Adjustment ::

For modders who want to use other types of foam darts, especially those which have narrower tips (ie. streamlines or stefans), one solution is to adjust the width of the flywheels.

In my example, i simply use electrical tape to increase the width of the flywheels.

The amount of tape layers required will depend on the foam darts used, so its up to modders to test and find the best combination of tape layers to apply.



Note that the plastic casings and ramps around the flywheels would need to be trimmed if thicker layers of material are wrapped around the flywheels, or else the wheels may get stuck.


:: Stefan Compatibility ::

For modders who want to use stefans or foam darts that are much shorter than normal stock foam darts, here is an idea you can try.

Slot separate foam spacer pieces in the barrels behind each stefan or short foam dart. The Barricade's dart pusher rod will push the foam spacer piece which in turn will push the stefan forward into the flywheels to be fired out.




:: Modified Nerf Barricade - Demo & Range Testing Video ::

Here is a demo and range testing video for reference.




:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 10 darts).

Stock Barricade
PTG = 25 ft
ATG = 35 ft

Modded Barricade (8.4 Volts & Trigger Activated Power On)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with stock Nerf Sonic foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

229 comments:

  1. That sounds beasty, good guide.

    Just one little question, after having done the mods to the Barricade, has the faster spinning motors affected the accuracy at all? and have you had any problems with the motors?

    ReplyDelete
  2. If you don't have a dummy battery could you use a standard AA battery?

    ReplyDelete
  3. Moonsword,

    The faster spinning motors propel the foam darts at a higher velocity and as a result there is a noticeable improvement in accuracy.

    So far the stock motors seem to be running okay with the increased voltage feed, but i guess only time will tell how long the motors can last with these mods. :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. matt,

    If you are using higher voltage batteries like 3.7V Li-Ion rechargeables, you cannot put batteries of different voltage or chemistry in the circuit, doing so may cause early failure in the batteries and result in potentially dangerous consequences.

    To bypass a battery slot, use a proper dummy AA battery to ensure safe operation.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Zul,

    "Stefans" are a nickname for DIY foam darts made using Foam Backer Rod (FBR) material.

    It was popularized by a Nerf enthusiast named Stefan Mohr way back in 1995, and the name "Stefan" has been used to describe DIY foam darts ever since.

    ReplyDelete
  6. where did you get a dummy AA battery

    ReplyDelete
  7. ethan1000,

    Dummy AA batteries can be sourced from specialist battery supply stores.

    In my example, i simply DIY my own dummy AA batteries by using a AAA to AA battery converter shell and ftting a length of 5mm thick copper wire inbetween the internal contacts. :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. do u think the Barricade or the stampede is better overall ? like which would u use in a nerf match

    ReplyDelete
  9. lmix,

    If comparing between the Barricade and Stampede, all factors point to the Stampede being better overall, it has more ammo capacity, higher RoF, fires in full-auto, can switch clips and has more range and power when modded.

    But the Barricade has the advantage of being a compact blaster that can be holstered, so its ideal as a sidearm.

    I use both in Nerf games, a modded Stampede as a main blaster and a modded Barricade holstered as a close-quarter sidearm.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Where can you buy the batterys that you used in this as well as the Dummy A battery. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  11. seamcd89,

    14500 size Li-Ion rechargeable batteries and AAA to AA battery converter shells (to DIY dummy AA batteries) can be found at electronics supply stores.

    You can check out this useful information link on batteries and related equipment over at the NerfSG forum:

    http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html

    ReplyDelete
  12. Is the Barricade suitable for dual wielding?

    Also, how feasible would it be to add a laser pointer for aiming?

    Thanks, I'm a Humans Vs. Zombies player and this is a great guide.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Dull,

    Yes, with a motorised semi-auto firing system, the Barricade is great for dual wielding.

    A laser pointer can provide an alternative aiming point, but its effectiveness would largely depend on the accuracy of the blaster and foam darts used. :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thanks for the quick reply! I'll be picking up two of these bad boys when they hit the shelves in November.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Can I just twist a piece of wire in between the third battery slot's contacts? Or is the plastic shell serving some purpose?

    ReplyDelete
  16. Lawrence,

    You could do that too, but just be careful with exposed wiring in a live circuit.

    I use the AAA to AA converter shells to encase the copper wire so that the wire is not exposed, it fits nicely in the battery slot and i can easily swap it out to use in other devices when required.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Ooh. I like this.
    How far does the rod push the dart? If it were able to extend almost to the flywheels, you could load two short Stefans in each barrel and just press the trigger a little bit the first time and all the way the second time around. That way you have 20 darts.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Also, do you have any range data at 7.4 volts?

    Thx

    ReplyDelete
  19. The Engineer,

    The dart pusher rod pushes the foam darts halfway out of the rotating barrel for the dart tips to be caught by the spinning flywheels to be launched out.

    To get the dart pusher rod to extend further, a fair amount of additional work would need to be done to mod it as the default pusher mechanism can only move that far forward and back in order to allow the barrel to rotate freely.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Lawrence,

    I've tested various voltages from stock 4.5V all the way to 8.4V and above (if voltage too high, the motors don't spin). Basically, the higher the voltage the faster the motors spin, hence further range.

    At 6V, range is around 30-35ft. At 7V, range is around 40-45ft. You get the idea. :)

    ReplyDelete
  21. SG Nerf,
    How could I contact you personally about purchasing a modified blaster from you?

    ReplyDelete
  22. raiter,

    I currently don't do modding contracts or sell modded blasters.

    I would encourage you to mod your blasters on your own so that you'll fully understand how it works and how its done (and how to repair and maintain it properly).

    Thats why i post up mod guides for modders to refer to. :)

    ReplyDelete
  23. were can i buy 3.7 volt aa batterys i have seen them at my local radio shack but non rechargeable for 18.99 do you know were i can get them cheap online

    ReplyDelete
  24. Keenan,

    Check the Battery Guide that i posted at the NerfSG forum for more information on the type of batteries i use and where to order them:

    http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html

    ReplyDelete
  25. How is the alternate motor testing going?

    ReplyDelete
  26. Dull,

    Still testing out various motors, so far i've have not found suitable ones which perform as well as the stock versions (which display quick response with higher voltage).

    The Plasma Dash motors that i tested were the closest to being suitable, though they were abit slow to spin up. But when fully spinning they were so fast that the foam darts got shredded, so i'm testing more alternative motors. :)

    ReplyDelete
  27. Hi SG Nerf,

    Great work! Just a couple quick questions.

    How does the Barricade perform if only the pressure switch mod is used? Will it still achieve the same stock firing power without the voltage increase?

    I only ask cause I don't want to wear out the stock motors but wish to have the pressure trigger system.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Jeremy,

    The pressure switch mod just automates the switching on of the motor when the trigger is pulled.

    If normal batteries are used, the firing power and range will still be the same as before.

    ReplyDelete
  29. Hi SG,

    An amazing mod, as always!

    Just a quick question how did you get the plastic casing surrounding the fly wheels apart?

    I am having trouble separating the part of the casing just under the
    bottom fly wheel, it appears to be glued =/

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  30. David,

    Yeah, the plastic casing surrounding the motors and flywheels are glued together, i simply carefully pry them apart bit by bit with a large flat-head screwdriver. :)

    ReplyDelete
  31. 1. Did you try using a rechargeable 9 volt? Or will it not provide enough current? I have to wait to get this in the states, but it seems a nine volt could possibly perform slightly better and be much more simple.

    2. Have you found the motors get hot? If cooling is not an issue, maybe some foam for sound and vibrations?

    ReplyDelete
  32. Matt,

    I've tested rechargeable 9V batteries before and they could be used too, but they have very low mAh capacity so can only last a very short time before requiring another recharge.

    So far, i've not experienced the motors overheating yet, though its most likely due to the trigger activated power on mod i've done on all my Barricades, the motors are not spinning constantly and wasting energy.

    I've also tried adding some sound absorbing foam into parts of the casing internals too and it seems to help reduce noise abit, but not very significantly though.

    ReplyDelete
  33. Would it be possible to use one standard 1.5 volt AA battery and then 2 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries, just a thought.

    ReplyDelete
  34. I'm so glad the Barricade is finally out in the U.S.A.

    ReplyDelete
  35. You can buy the trustfire 14500 rechargeable batteries on:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19771 For $4.22.

    ReplyDelete
  36. nerfboyz,

    DO NOT mix different battery types, voltages or capacities, doing so may cause battery failure and result in injury.

    Please read this battery guide thread at the NerfSG forum for more information on proper usage of such batteries:

    http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html

    ReplyDelete
  37. What do you use to recharge the batteries? If it is a specific charger, would you be so kind as to provide a link to it?

    ReplyDelete
  38. Hi SG nerf,
    i live in singapore at the moment and i was wondering if i could buy a barricade of you :)
    How much would it cost all together?

    If not, where can i find the batteries you have and the dummy battery in singapore? preferrably around orchard if possible :)

    ReplyDelete
  39. Greg,

    Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can only be charged by Li-Ion chargers.

    Here are the links to the batteries and charger that i use:

    TrustFire Unprotected 14500 3.7V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (2-Pack):
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.19771

    TrustFire TR-001 Multi-Purpose Li-Ion Battery Charger:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12594

    ReplyDelete
  40. russel,

    You can just buy Nerf Barricades directly from Toys R Us stores in Singapore:

    http://sgnerf.blogspot.com/2010/11/nerf-n-strike-barricade-rv-10-in.html

    As for batteries, check this NerfSG forum thread for all the information on the batteries we use, how to get and how to properly use them:

    http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html

    ReplyDelete
  41. What kind of ranges would you get with streamline darts? (as they do not have a proper 'head'

    ReplyDelete
  42. htrfghg,

    If the flywheel adjustment mod is done properly, streamline darts can also be fired to around the same range as sonic or tagger darts. It all depends on how good the grip the flywheels have on the darts.

    But note that although streamline darts could be fired far, they are naturally very unbalanced and inaccurate (when fired from just about every blaster) as they tend to swerve all over the place at any range above 20ft.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Is there any way to put a barrel extension like the one off the recon onto the barricade?

    ReplyDelete
  44. SD,

    Nope, the Nerf Barricade is not designed to mount N-Strike front barrel attachments.

    The only way you can do it is to custom modify a front attachment point on your Nerf Barricade.

    ReplyDelete
  45. Also, how long does it take for the motors to spin fully when you only have the trigger pressure switch?

    ReplyDelete
  46. Where do you get a dummy AA battery?

    ReplyDelete
  47. nerfboyz,

    I custom made my own dummy AA batteries by simply using AAA to AA converter shells and fitting a thick copper wire inside them to connect their + and - contacts.

    ReplyDelete
  48. SD,

    With the Trigger Activated Power On mod done, it usually takes less than a split-second for the flywheels to spin up to full speed. Note that i am using high voltage and high discharge rate Li-Ion rechargeable batteries, those kind of batteries really increase the motor response time and speed significantly.

    ReplyDelete
  49. Have you considered putting a potentiometer in the circuit? it could only serve to decrease your range and accuracy, but if you're expecting close range combat, it could help to reduce the motor speed and decrease noise.

    ReplyDelete
  50. Eric Lohmar,

    Yes, i've tested my modded Barricades with voltage controllers to allow adjustments for the voltage feed too. It works, though most of the time i set it to maximum voltage to get the highest motor speed possible for better range... so i end up not using the voltage controller much anyways. :)

    ReplyDelete
  51. Just recently overclocked our barricade to use a 12 volt power socket adaptor, thing fires so far but we're having problems with the thing overheating and shutting itself off. Any tips?

    ReplyDelete
  52. Will,

    Just reduce the voltage, then test to see if it helps to decrease the chances of the motors shutting themselves down.

    ReplyDelete
  53. I have been able to get my blaster to operate with 3 x 14500 Lithium cells. I won't tell you how I made it work, because basically its not safe (you have to bypass the over-current protection). It makes a HUGE racket, and after only a few seconds at full grunt the motors start to smell. But I tell you what - those little darts certainly fly!!!

    I measured the start up current with 12.6V - its over 5A!!! With the motors going flatout its sucking nearly 1A from the supply. Certainly not going to get much battery life at that rate.

    ReplyDelete
  54. Can I use your Fotos for my Homepage?

    ReplyDelete
  55. NERF,

    You may reference some photos from here for your homepage, but please remember to credit the photos with links back to this site.

    ReplyDelete
  56. Couldn't you just take out the whole third battery compartment, I can't make a dummy battery.

    ReplyDelete
  57. Gaddiel,

    Sure, you can remove parts and do any mods you want to fit your requirements.

    I simply prefer to do simpler and less destructive mods (whenever possible) to my modded Nerf Barricades so that i have the option to still use the original parts.

    ReplyDelete
  58. One more thing, on the on trigger, will that slow down the rate of fire
    because it has to turn on every time you use it? Just curious.

    ReplyDelete
  59. Gaddiel,

    Well, the motors start up quite quickly when used with batteries that have higher voltage and discharge rate, and in between each shot the flywheels would still be spinning for a while, so follow-up shots can still maintain the firing momentum.

    ReplyDelete
  60. If I do the fly wheel mod(to use thinner darts) will I still be able to use the whistlers or would i need to remove the mod to use them?

    ReplyDelete
  61. You could also move the switch to the grip so you can keep it at speed and get more speed, and you can chose rocker or push-button. Then it says up to speed

    ReplyDelete
  62. I bought my nerf barricade yesterday. I opened it up to perform the switch mod, and unfortunately, it appears my barricade did not come with a pressure switch.
    Do you have any recommendations for an alternative, as I intend to upgrade the batteries and I dont want the motors to burn out

    ReplyDelete
  63. Tony,

    If the flywheel adjustment is done properly and the tape layers are not too thick, it would still be able to use Whistler or Tagger foam darts.

    ReplyDelete
  64. andreblue,

    Yup, my first modded Barricade had a pressure switch on the handle and i had to use another finger to press it to keep the motors spinning, with my index finger pulling the trigger separately.

    But i found that controlling 2 separate components with 2 fingers abit unnecessary, so i decided to simply put the pressure switch under the trigger itself so only one finger is required to operate it. Simply quarter pull to rev up and maintain the motors spinning, then pull the trigger the rest of the way to fire, everything operates along the same movement.

    ReplyDelete
  65. Louis_manley,

    The pressure switch is found under an orange plastic cover secured by 2 sliver screws, you have to remove the plastic cover to be able to access it.

    ReplyDelete
  66. SG Nerf would this motor work http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2909786

    ReplyDelete
  67. SG Nerf,

    When creating the dummy AA battery, did you solder the copper wire to the inside of the AAA converter or just hold the piece of wire in by pressure of the snapped together converter casing?

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  68. minh11757,

    The link you posted does not show the exact dimensions of the motor, so i can't advise on its possible fitment.

    Check out the Nerf Barricade Internals Guide at this link:

    http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-internals-guide.html

    The stock motors are around the same size as a Tamiya Plasma Dash motor, so that should give you an indication of the motor size.

    ReplyDelete
  69. Alan,

    For my DIY Dummy AA batteries, i simply cut lengths of thick copper wire and twisted the ends into coils which are just held in place by the transparent shells.

    No soldering required... 'cos sometimes i still use the shells to convert AAA batteries to AA size batteries too. :)

    ReplyDelete
  70. I found the dimensions you had to click on tech spechs.BTW the motor is only 3.99 US Dollars
    Tech Specs

    Dimensions

    Product Length 0.77 inches


    Product Height 0.43 inches


    Product Width 0.58 inches


    General Features

    Model 273-046


    Product Type 7.5V


    Body Material Metal


    Miscellaneous Features

    Supported Languages English

    ReplyDelete
  71. minh11757,

    Okay, since you have the dimensions of that motor. Simply open up your Nerf Barricade and measure the stock motors to see if they match the dimensions too.

    ReplyDelete
  72. SG Nerf I was talking to some people on Nerf Revolution and they told me to reniforce the gears if i put in the new motor espically if i amp up the voltage to 7.5.Should I?

    ReplyDelete
  73. would it be better to add a raider stock or not?

    ReplyDelete
  74. SG,

    Great guide but Im stuck, baffled really. I hooked up everything as you had outlined yet when I depress the plunger, nothing happens. Now the wiring i used to splice into the existing wire is 20 gauge, whcih is different from what is OEM. Could that be an issue? Also, Im trying to test the circuit using the (3) 1.5 batteries vice the (2) 3.7's as they have not yet arrived. Could that be an issue?
    Any insight would be appreciated.

    ReplyDelete
  75. minh11757,

    Well, so far i've been running my modded Barricades at 8.4V (as shown in my mod guide) and there have been no noticeable issues with the gears yet.

    I guess you could reinforce or replace the gears if you want to increase the durability of those parts.

    ReplyDelete
  76. drewaxsis,

    Sure, a Raider shoulder stock would be good to add to help steady your aiming.

    ReplyDelete
  77. Edward,

    Seems like you'll need to recheck your wiring, soldering and any other connections that may have somehow come loose.

    If you have a multimeter, test the various points in the circuit to find out which part isn't connected properly.

    The circuit should still work with the originally recommended 3 x 1.5V batteries too.

    ReplyDelete
  78. I've moded quite a few guns now, this one has bin the most painful... After disassembling and painting the baricade i put it back together after making a couple modifications... The motors still run fine and the mechanicals seem to be in order but heres the problem. When trying to fire the darts no longer seem to be going far enough to be caught by the wheels. They get stuck! Any Ideas of what might be wrong.

    ReplyDelete
  79. have you ever had problems with motor overheating and burning up with the voltage mod??

    ReplyDelete
  80. forrestj87,

    Check that the flywheels are properly aligned and the dart pusher stem is able to extend forward fully without restriction.

    ReplyDelete
  81. SD,

    So far, with 8.4V (as shown in my Mod Guide), my Nerf Barricade motors are still running okay.

    There is a safety shut-off in the circuitry, so if the voltage or current gets too high, the motors stop for a while before allowing the system to operate again... so i guess that helps to keeps the motors operating within safe limits.

    ReplyDelete
  82. Hey thanks SG,

    As it turns out the reason the circuit didnt work was "operator error" ...I didnt have the dart clearance chamber door fully closed, therefor the circuit was open and of course, non operational. I did not realize it had a plunger switch on the door mechanism. All works well now...great mod btw.

    ReplyDelete
  83. Would wrapping a wide rubber band on the flywheel increase range because theoretically it would grip the darts better? also, would adding a pvc pipe in the barrel add range like other nerf guns?

    ReplyDelete
  84. SG Nerf

    The flywheels are aligned at first I thought I might have put the motors in upside-down but they are in properly spinning the right direction the plunger stem that pushes the darts apears to be pushing its full length capability. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the layers of paint are to thick on that piece but I highly doubt a 1/1000 of a millimeter is gonna make that big of a diference. Here's a picture of the blaster but I like all of my finished products to work.
    [IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm129/forrestj87/DSCN1217.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm129/forrestj87/DSCN1213.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm129/forrestj87/DSCN1218.jpg[/IMG]

    ReplyDelete
  85. hello, i was wondering if you could tell me the gauge of the wire you used for the connection? and is it copper wire?

    ReplyDelete
  86. can you please tell me what gauge wire you use for extending the pressure switch? and what kind of metal? thanks

    ReplyDelete
  87. Can you just use a wire between the two + and - bits instead of a dummy battery?

    ReplyDelete
  88. Xerolimits89,

    Wrapping rubber bands at the flywheels is one way to narrow the gap between them for better grip on the foam dart tips (most modders use layers of e-tape instead to get the right thickness), better grip helps the flywheels to "throw" out the foam darts abit better, but don't make the gap too narrow or the foam darts might get stuck.

    A PVC pipe barrel in flywheel powered blasters wouldn't increase range, it might help in keeping the foam darts aligned when it exits the flywheels but it'll also tend to reduce range slightly due to the foam darts bumping against the PVC pipe walls.

    ReplyDelete
  89. forrestj87,

    Its possible that just a slight variation in position of the parts can cause the flywheels not to grip the foam darts properly. I guess you'll just have to keep checking to troubleshoot the parts positions.

    ReplyDelete
  90. E & Immanuel,

    The sleeved copper electrical wires i used are basically the same gauge as the original wires in the Barricade, the shop i got the rolls of those electrical wiring from didn't indicate the gauge either, so i guess i'd consider them as just "common" electrical wiring?

    ReplyDelete
  91. Ben,

    Yes, you could do that too. Just make sure the wiring is securely attached to the contacts. :)

    ReplyDelete
  92. Would putting a new slot for a standard 9 volt battery work? this seems to be a much cheaper alternative. And why do you think they would put a pressure switch in? It says do not modify right on it.

    ReplyDelete
  93. where can i buy nerf supply's like foam for the stefans or springs and could i just completely replace the motor?

    ReplyDelete
  94. pete,

    Check at hardware stores for the various materials.

    Yes, you could replace the motors, read my Nerf Barricade Internals Guide for some information about it:

    http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-internals-guide.html

    ReplyDelete
  95. silas,

    Sure, you could mod it to fit a 9V battery... but note that 9V alkaline batteries have very low mAh capacities so they tend to run out of power very quickly. You'll end up having to replace the 9V batteries often.

    Its still better to use rechargeable battery sources with higher mAh capacities, save money and the environment.

    The pressure switch component found in the Nerf Barricade is originally for the On/Off switch.

    Every Nerf blaster has the "Do Not Modfy" warning because any modifications to the blasters is at the modders own risk, Nerf is not liable for any damage or injuries that result from modifications done.

    ReplyDelete
  96. I'm trying to mod my Barricade and I've got a problem. One of the wire plugs popped out of its resistor (the little black things) in the motor assembly. Do you have any idea what value resistor it is? I'm going to try and resolder it but if I can't I'll need to replace the entire resistor. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  97. Could I use a dead alkaline AA battery instead of using a dummy battery? Would that work?

    ReplyDelete
  98. Jeffrey,

    Sorry, my knowledge of electronics is basic "cave man" hobby level at best, so i can't really help you on that.

    Perhaps you could just bring that resistor to an electronics parts supply shop and maybe they can identify it for you.

    ReplyDelete
  99. Bill,

    No, mixing batteries of different capacities (ie. full + empty batteries) can result in early failure and damage to the batteries or electronics.

    Do not use dead alkaline batteries as by-pass dummy batteries, it can also result in damage or injury.

    Thats why dummy AA batteries are used in the first place.

    ReplyDelete
  100. where can you get dummy batteries?

    ReplyDelete
  101. I just got 2 Barricades and I'm wondering what the max test working voltage is. I'm thinking of using 3 of these: http://www.bestofferbuy.com/14500-rechargeable-lithium-lifepo4-battery-2pack-450mah-p-6621.html?zenid=9lsfrspjju6n32p6fl1a34pi21
    because the voltage would be higher but I don't know what the max voltage for the gun is. Have you used a variable power supply to try and figure out what's safe?

    ReplyDelete
  102. Hey! I'm not that big in to modding, but I did something I think you guys would enjoy. I took your idea of the trigger = power on thing and made it a little more practical for a nerf war. Instead of having to wait a second when you pull the trigger for the motors to spin up, I put the pressure sensor sticking out on the handle of the gun. When I pull it out of the holster, the gun automatically spins up just because I'm holding the gun. You should try it!

    ReplyDelete
  103. Justice,

    You could get ready-made dummy batteries from battery part suppliers.

    I simply DIY mine using AAA to AA converter shells and installing a thick copper wire between their internal metal contacts.

    ReplyDelete
  104. Kyle Collins,

    I'm not too familiar with the LiFePO4 batteries that are shown in your link, but i read in the product description that they can be charged up to 3.6V, so if you use 3 of them at full charge, the total voltage would be around 10.8V.

    So far, i've only tested my modded Barricades at 8.4V or 12.6V with Li-Ion batteries and the motors only work at 8.4V while stalling at 12.6V.

    I guess you could just try out combinations of those LiFePO4 batteries and see the effect.

    ReplyDelete
  105. Hey SG nerf,

    First just wanted to say great mod! I purchased 2 Barricades because I was so inspired!

    I read in your other blog post (http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-internals-guide.html#comments) that Flux used 2 Power Dash motors and was getting 80 ft...

    I'm not sure which those are exactly, since I have been out of Tamiya racing for several years now, but I was wondering if you had tried any mods with any other Tamiya motors besides the Plasma Dash? I'm very interested in testing this gun with different motors now.

    I had an Okami motor before (a Type 4) and it was insanely fast! Do you think that it might break the gun if I tried to use it?

    Lastly, just a tip. We used to "break in" our Tamiya motors to prepare them to be race ready by running them on extremely low voltage (near dead battery + a dummy). If you open the motor, you will see the metal transmits the electricity at certain points around the rod. If you break in the motor, the metal will bend to form to the rod and be able to perform better over a longer period of time. I assume since these are similar motors, they would work similarly. It may seem like a hassle to try to break in the motors for this gun, especially if it's possible to replace them with better ones, but just a thought!

    Anyway, thanks and keep up the great work!

    ReplyDelete
  106. Jeremy,

    So far, i've only tested out Tamiya Plasma Dash motors and they can work, though the wear and tear on the foam darts would tend to be higher.

    I guess you could try out other types of motors and see how they work out. :)

    ReplyDelete
  107. My trigger keeps getting stuck, when its almost at the fully frontward position, its very irrtating to have to push the trigger forward every shot D=

    Help?

    ReplyDelete
  108. Dennis,

    You can try removing the trigger lock. Its the set of orange plastic components and a small spring situated behind the trigger (they are secured down with 2 silver machine screws). Removing those parts should solve your stuck trigger issue.

    For reference, look at Step 4 of this guide:

    http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/12/nerf-barricade-clip-conversion-mod.html

    ReplyDelete
  109. Do you do any airzone blaster mods?

    ReplyDelete
  110. Calahan,

    I've modded some airzone brand blasters before, but i didn't find them worth posting up though.

    ReplyDelete
  111. SG Nerf,

    Would this I be able to use this http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-ES2-Dummy-Battery-Energy/dp/B0000C5RR8 in the third battery space?

    ReplyDelete
  112. sonicjewel,

    Yes, the dummy AA battery shown in your link can be used too.

    ReplyDelete
  113. The trigger activated power on mod is great! I've used it in a few battles and expected it to wear out or break, but it's still working great! This is my second mod I've gotten from SG Nerf, and I'm definently going to come back for more!

    ReplyDelete
  114. legofreakwaco,

    Cool, thanks for the nice feedback. :)

    ReplyDelete
  115. I can't get my blaster to open up. It seems like there is something at the rear of the gun holding it together. Is there any glue there? I am afraid to apply to much force, in fear I may break it...

    ReplyDelete
  116. nose-stall,

    There is a machine screw inside the battery compartment, you will need to open the battery cover to access it. Remove it then you can open up the casing.

    ReplyDelete
  117. what are your ranges with stefans? I think the missing rubber tips affect the range even whith tape around the flywheels, maybe it would be better to dip the stefans' tips into rubber.

    ReplyDelete
  118. Jakob,

    With the flywheel width adjustment mod done properly, the stefans i use achieve similar range as the Nerf sonic foam darts.

    ReplyDelete
  119. I wrapped two layers of fabric tape around the wheels, even had to trim away much of the ramps. They fit the 13mm foam nicely, i tried all kinds of weights in the stefans but the only way I would get close to the ranges of stock darts was using a rubber ring made from a whistler tip. But I'm glad to hear you got it working, I'll try to increase the wheels' friction next, maybe that will work.

    ReplyDelete
  120. I bought some electrical tape. Though it's still missing the "plop" and the recoil caused by the rubber tips, range is now much closer to the stock darts. I am satisfied. Thank you, SG Nerf! I will now start tweaking the stefans. I'll return with the results and pics of my painted Barricades.

    ReplyDelete
  121. If someone thinks the motors do not spin up fast enough between shots, he could build a simple shutoff-delay with an ne555 timer and basic electronics skills. Unfortunately I lack both.

    ReplyDelete
  122. Could this semi-auto system be transferred to a Longstrike? My Longstrike blew itself apart because of the spring. My main question is: is the Longstrike wide enough for the fly wheel system?

    Also: Would a 9v battery be enough to power the fly wheels for decent amount of time? (Like 40 6-dart clips.)

    ReplyDelete
  123. DL,

    Well, i guess if you can create enough space in a Longstrike casing, its probably possible to fit the Barricade internal parts into it.

    It'll be more of a re-shelling project 'cos the entire Barricade firing system will have to be transferred and installed in the same configuration, and the Barricade itself converted to clip-fed too. Though if you have the time, its worth a try. :)

    A regular alkaline 9V battery can power the flywheels but from my experience, they run out of power very quickly.

    I tested a generic brand 9V battery a while back and it barely lasted a dozen clips, i guess better quality batteries would probably last abit longer. Still not a cost effective source of power though.

    ReplyDelete
  124. I have a choice between the Alpha Trooper and the Barricade.
    Which one is better?

    ReplyDelete
  125. Simon,

    Personally, i'd get the Barricade... mainly because its semi-auto and can be dual-wielded (or wielded along with a Stampede at the same time for quick snap shots). :)

    ReplyDelete
  126. I bought some 3.2v rechargeable lithium batteries and was able to put 3 in the barricade. It is a HUGE improvement.

    ReplyDelete
  127. Argg, my barricade broke, can you make a repair guide

    ReplyDelete
  128. So I just bought some Trustfire 14500 3.7v rechargeable, and another set of no-name rechargeable Lithium Polymer 3.2v from Batteries Plus and found that you can put 2 3.7v trustfires and one 3.2v, and the motor will run. Shoots pretty hard :)

    ReplyDelete
  129. hell bulder,

    My Nerf Barricade units are all still work fine... how can i make a repair guide without having broken units in the first place? :)

    Maybe you can just try fixing yours and then post up your own repair guide to share your experience.

    ReplyDelete
  130. Michael,

    Do NOT mix batteries of different voltage, capacity or type in the same circuit. It can cause battery damage and early failure which may result in injuries.

    ReplyDelete
  131. The tape around the wheels seems to create quite some vibration, making the barricade much louder and slowing the motors. Do you have the same issue? What could I do to fix it?
    I still consider using plasti-dip on the stefan's tips instead of the tape. That would be expensive, though.

    I am finished with the shutoff-delay, btw. It's much simpler than I expected (using only 4 cheap components) and you can adjust the time between releasing the trigger and the motors shutting off.

    Now I just have to tap (or hold) the trigger to turn the Barricade on. The motors will spin at full speed for convenient and natural shooting, just like with an unmodded gun. After I have not used the trigger for 2 seconds, the Barricade will automatically turn off. No more relying on the motor's momentum for follow-up shots for me!
    If you're interested, I will write you a short guide for you to put on this page.

    ReplyDelete
  132. Jakob,

    I've had no issues with the tape i use causing vibrations in the spinning flywheels, perhaps the tape you are using is abit too heavy or not evenly layered?

    The shutoff delay feature is interesting, that was one of the initial mods i tested a while back but i found the constant buzzing still abit annoying (its about the same as just manually switching on and off, except now its done automatically with a timer), so i reverted back to the simple pressure switch activated system, since the trigger will be half-pulled and the circuit is closed (and flywheels spinning constantly) while i'm firing anyways. Much simpler and more effective. :)

    ReplyDelete
  133. I have increased the voltage in my Barricade to 9 volts (I just wired in a 9v battery), and I am noticing some wear and tear on the whistler darts after 2 days of heavy use. The rubber on the tip seem to be wearing out a tad.
    Although very small it does concern me.
    Has this happened to you? Will this affect the performance of my gun?

    ReplyDelete
  134. Simon,

    Yes, the higher spinning speeds of the flywheels will invariably cause higher wear and tear on the foam darts.

    I've tested Barricades with super high speed motors before and the foam darts actually get shredded (literally!) during the first shot... so flywheel speeds should be kept to appropriate levels for overall reliability during usage. :)

    The only issue with worn out foam darts is that they gradually generate less grip with the flywheels as they wear out, so you'll just need to replace those worn out foam darts with newer ones.

    ReplyDelete
  135. Thanks for the quick reply SG Nerf!

    ReplyDelete
  136. Just wondering, for the trigger activated power-up, could you just wrap the wires onto the pressure switch using electrical tape and not solder?

    ReplyDelete
  137. thomas,

    Yes, you can do that too, just make sure the wires are in contact securely and don't disconnect easily.

    ReplyDelete
  138. What's the motor like? How difficult/effective do you think it would be to switch it out with a different one for faster spin-up or running speed?

    ReplyDelete
  139. I just read the discussion on the internals guide, and saw that my question's already been answered.

    I really love your mods though! They're very well done, and I appreciate how consistently and quickly you respond to questions. I think I'll be trying this one, and the stampede one this summer.

    ReplyDelete
  140. I tried a voltage increase mod on my Vulcan, using two 9V batteries instead of 6x1.5V AA's, but the motors died. Is there something wrong with using 9V batteries instead of AA's, or was it just that I overloaded the motors? I want to up the voltage on my Barricade but I really don't want to wreck another gun, especially since you can't fire the Barricade manually like you can the Vulcan.

    ReplyDelete
  141. Nathan,

    Conventional 9V alkaline batteries have very low mAh capacity (it determines how long a battery can last, different factor from voltage) so they run out of power very quickly... so i think its more likely your batteries are just fully drained.

    Imho, its really not cost effective to use 9V batteries at all... those kind of batteries are designed for low energy consumption devices.

    I would recommend to use at least AA batteries instead, or even higher mAh capacity rechargeable battery sources.

    ReplyDelete
  142. Where can i get the Dummy Battery ? Can order to other countries ?

    ReplyDelete
  143. harith539,

    You could order dummy batteries from online electronics parts websites... or do what i did, simply get AAA to AA battery converter shells and slot a length of thick copper wire inside them to bridge the + and - contacts.

    ReplyDelete
  144. Oh ok thanks for your Information . Thank You .

    ReplyDelete
  145. For those of you looking for a dummy battery still, the EASIEST method is to fill in the gap with some crumpled aluminum foil. Once you get it to the right shape and size, pull it out and wrap it in tape leaving just the front and back exposed. It's how McGuyver would do it.

    ReplyDelete
  146. The motors did not move because they have capacitors on them. They are small red things on the motors. If you twist their legs together you can run whatever voltage you like. I have 11.1v Li-Ion on my gun, as well as the trigger mod. Works wonderfully!

    ReplyDelete
  147. How did you make the dummy AA for the 3rd battery slot?

    ReplyDelete
  148. annother guy,

    Its made by using an AAA to AA battery converter shell with a thick copper wire positioned between both ends.

    ReplyDelete
  149. I went with Eric's suggestion and used a crumpled piece of aluminum foil with electric tape wrapped around the middle as the dummy battery.

    Works like a charm!

    Thanks Eric

    ReplyDelete
  150. Dear SG
    I currently have two lithium batteries charged up to 3.6 voltage. If I use these two batteries along with a normal duracell double A battery, will it be okay to do so? The total charge would be around 8.9 Volts

    ReplyDelete
  151. RodsTods,

    Okay, basic rule when using batteries... don't mix batteries of different types, capacities, voltages or charge in the same circuit, doing so can result in damage or injury. Make sure to only use the same batteries in your setup.

    ReplyDelete
  152. Hi there SG Nerf, I recently bought two Li-ion batteries and a dummy cell battery, but for some reason when I turn on the gun, the motor wont start. The dummy cell I bought was from
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/AA-Dummy-Cell-P522.aspx

    And the Li-Ion batteries were these http://www.tenergybattery.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=102&category_id=19&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=27%7D&vmcchk=1

    I know the voltage isn't above 8.4 , but I don't know why the gun won't start. I have the negative to positive correct. Thank you very much

    ReplyDelete
  153. Hey SG Nerf, I just tried two duracell batteries with my dummy cell and the gun turned on so I believe there is something wrong with the li-ion batteries. Any ideas? Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  154. RodsTods,

    Sometimes the + nubs in certain Li-Ion batteries are too short and can't reach the metal contacts in the battery compartment, so current can't flow.

    What you could do is just wedge a metal disc/magnet or spacer in between the + nub and the metal contacts, so that the circuit is fully connected.

    ReplyDelete
  155. Hey SG Nerf, love the site, was just wondering a couple of things about the batteries you chose.. you said you use 900 mAH unprotected, is any higher than 900 mAH just unnecessary? i generally war for several hours straight with no access to power so i really want to know if i should spend the extra cash on some 2400 mAH or something, or if its just not needed.

    Also does getting unprotected batteries make any difference to the performance? Cheers in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  156. lza269,

    Well, you could use batteries with higher mAh capacities too, the performance will not be different but they will just last longer, though such batteries tend to also be larger in size so you'll need to mod the casing to fit them or mount them externally.

    That's why i use 14500-size batteries, as they can be used in the existing battery compartment without requiring further mods.

    For the Barricade system, both protected and unprotected batteries can be used 'cos the flywheel motors don't have a high amp draw.

    The main reason why i use unprotected batteries for all my mods is because i also use them for my modded Stampedes with heavier spring loads, which have much higher amp draw and need unprotected batteries, so it's easier for me to just stick with one type of battery.  :)

    ReplyDelete
  157. @nerf sg !!
    i did a motor mod too, i changed my motor to a plasma dash motor.. i have posted step with pics on hw to do it!! at http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/viewtopic.php?forum_uri=nerf-barricade-rv-10-mod-motor-mod-and-current-mod&t=3458&start=&sid=449d1da329cb7397fe4cdf4cbcd72a36

    ReplyDelete
  158. @SGNerf,
    Could i just solder the 5mm copper wires to each contact instead of creating a dummy battery? I dont really have the know-how to bore holes or grooves on wooden dowels, nor can i make a plastic housing, but i do have a soldering iron :)) Not to knowledgeable on this so is there something i'm missing?

    Other than that, awesome guide! Just got a barricade and i'm ready to buy another one to dual wield :)).

    ReplyDelete
  159. Unknown,

    You could try that method too, but do be careful not to touch the bare copper wire when the circuit is live. 

    It'll be a good idea to wrap the bare copper wire in electrical tape to insulate it from accidental contact.

    ReplyDelete
  160. do you need to put in a dummy battery and if so why?

    ReplyDelete
  161. fooder331,

    It depends on your battery setup, the dummy battery is only required if you are using less batteries and need the circuit to bypass that empty battery slot.

    ReplyDelete
  162. do you think with a little space in between each one that you could increase the power if you put 2 or 3 flywheel systems in line? Wasn't sure if they would keep there momentum and gradually build or just slow it back down. Thought since you have had a little exp with the system that you might have some impute on this.

    ReplyDelete
  163. Prayingman,

    That might work... though i guess you'll have to actually build and test such a setup to find out if it works. Do post up your test results if you manage to build it. :)

    ReplyDelete
  164. I have been looking for simple mods to improve my barricade's range and accuracy. I can't believe how simple it is, thanks for the guide. The constant buzzing was irritating me, and making stealth shots impossible, so will be moving the pressure switch too. So looking forward to making your changes to my gun. Will try to remember to let you know how I get on.

    ReplyDelete
  165. Would the protected versions of the Trustfire give comparable performance. It's hard to find the unprotected ones over here.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. hachikuma,

      Yes, for flywheel blasters, protected batteries will give the same performance as the amp current draw in flywheel systems is still rather low.

      Delete
  166. how did you manage to take apart the motor housing? i've taken out all the screws but still can't open it up..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. carwyn_van,

      You have to pry apart the plastic housing to access the motor mounts, it takes some work but you'll eventually get it apart. :)

      Delete
  167. Is it possible to reattatch the pressure switch without re-soldering the wiring? I mean, is it possible to make the modification without detatching the switch from the oroginal wiring?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. EJ94,

      I've not tried that method 'cos the original wiring seemed abit too short to move it all the way to the trigger area comfortably. I found it easier to just cut, then reposition and re-wire.

      I guess it could be possible if you are able to work with the casing closer together while shifting the pressure switch... do try it out and post an update if you manage to shift it without cutting the wires. :)

      Delete
  168. Hey i tried this mod but i can't get the front part of my blaster off, the part covering the motors
    advice???

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Make sure all the machine screws are removed from the plastic motor cover, then you have to carefully pry apart the cover to access the motor mounts.

      Delete
  169. If I wanna increase the range, I just put higher voltage of batteries???.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. General Nerfer,

      Yup, that's the usual modding method for flywheel blasters, 'cos the speed of the motors can be increased by higher voltage feeds.

      Delete
  170. Is it okay to put three 'energizer' batteries instead Trustfire batteries? I'm just curious, energizer batteries can be found anywhere.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. General Nerfer,

      Energizer batteries are normal 1.5V alkaline batteries (commonly used for household electronics), that's what the stock blaster is supposed to run on anyways... but you only get stock motor speeds.

      TrustFire batteries are different, they are high voltage Li-Ion rechargeable batteries (4.2V each when fully charged), they are used by modders to increase the motor speed via higher voltage feed.

      Delete
  171. I have a barricade, where can I get Trustfire batteries???¿

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Nerf-Pole,

      You can order them from DealExtreme website:

      Batteries: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-14500-3-7v-900mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-19771?r=30088751

      Charger: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-tr-001-multi-purpose-lithium-battery-charger-12594?r=30088751

      Delete
    2. Are they sold locally? I don't have credit cards and prefer buying it at retails.

      Delete
    3. General Nerfer,

      Well, Dealextreme accepts payments via PayPal and offers free international shipping. You can actually setup your own PayPal account and transfer funds to it from your POSB/DBS bank account. So most people can just order directly from that site.

      If you prefer to buy from a local shop, check with Black-Tactical shop at Funan Mall, they stock different brands of Li-Ion batteries/chargers at various prices and specifications though, so you'll need to ask them to recommend you the suitable ones.

      Delete
  172. Can I use three equal voltage batteries and combined voltage is 8.4?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. General Nerfer,

      3 x 1.5V Alkaline batteries = 4.5V.

      3 x 4.2V Li-Ion batteries = 12.6V.

      To get 8.4V, you'll need to use 2 x 4.2V Li-Ion batteries with 1 x dummy battery in the 3rd battery slot.

      Btw, never mix Alkaline and Li-Ion batteries together, they have to be used only with their own types.

      Delete
  173. Thanks NerfSG

    ReplyDelete
  174. I just wanted to say really good and do you know how to remove the thermistor? should I just cut, rip, and rewire?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mackenzie van Zanden,

      Well, you could just cut the thermistor out and solder the 2 wires back together properly... if you don't have a soldering iron, twisting the wires together and wrapping it with electrical tape can also work as a temporary method too.

      But do note that removing the thermistor may result in damage to your circuit, batteries or motor as there is no more protection from current overloads or overheating.

      Delete
  175. Thanks! I actually did exactly what you said with the e tape before you told me how because I was being impatient. How long do the trustfire batteries take to ship?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mackenzie van Zanden,

      Depends on whether the supplier has stock and how fast they can ship them out... for Dealextreme (the site i order them from), it usually takes around 2-3 weeks for international delivery.

      Delete
  176. i just started modding and thought i would start with a barricade. I'm not doing any of the mods you did here except for the battery, and I'm adding a mag well. i already made a mag well out of the grey connector you get in the two pack mags, and have been working on the firing mechanism. Anyways is the plastic on the trigger peace made of a type of plastic that doesn't like super glue? It's been giving me the fits.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stephen,

      Use all purpose glue instead, the type that is labelled to be usable for flexible plastic materials... 'cos super glue tends to be more for rigid materials.

      Delete
  177. Im trying to mod my barricade but I've lost the pressure switch. Were can I get another one

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      You can check at DIY electronics parts shops... usually the places where they sell individual components and kits for electronics hobbyists and engineers.

      Delete
  178. Is there a suitable replacement pressure switch

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Alex Billingham,

      Just get any button or lever mini pressure switch from DIY electronics parts shops, there should be lots of selections at those places.

      Delete
  179. Sups SG,

    Would three of those 3.7 li-ion batteries work?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wilks,

      From my tests, 3 of the Li-Ion batteries tend to cause the internal circuit safety to cut off power intermittently and stall the motors.

      But you could use that amount of voltage if you remove the safety thermistors in the circuit though, but note that there would be no more over-heating or over-current protection once that is done.

      Delete
    2. Thanks mate. Apologies, I didn't realise that you had already answered that at the start of your post!

      Delete
  180. what would happen if you put three 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries in the barricade

    ReplyDelete