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Sunday, September 27, 2009

Nerf Recon Mod Guide!

This Mod Guide will cover popular mods for the Nerf Recon.

Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Padding
- Spring Replacement

Note: These mods are also applicable to the Nerf Raider as it shares similar internal mechanisms as the Nerf Recon (some of the info here may also be repeated at the Nerf Raider Mod Guide).

>> Nerf Longshot Mod Guide
>> Nerf Raider Mod Guide

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!


:: AR Removal ::

Step 1: Disassemble your Recon. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing. There are 12 screws in the main body and 2 screws in the black plunger cap.




Step 2: Take out the bolt sled assembly. Knock out the metal retaining pin that holds the bolt and bolt sled, this will separate the bolt from the bolt sled.




Step 3: This is the "Pipe Cutter" method. You will need a rotational pipe cutter to cut the bolt in order to remove the AR.

Please observe closely the spot where the pipe cutter blade is positioned at. That is the correct position to cut (though you can deviate 1mm either way). Just tighten the pipe cutter slightly and do the rotational cut (not too much or else it might slice the bolt in half).

In the following photo, a pre-sliced cut has already been made for reference.



Rotate the pipe cutter 2-3 times, and try to pull apart the bolt. If it doesn't move, rotate the pipe cutter again, do not over-tighten the pipe cutter! Keep testing. Very soon, the bolt will separate into two parts and the AR will just drop out.


Step 4: Join back the 2 sections of the bolt sleeve using plastic hobby or epoxy glue. Let the glue set properly before re-installing back into the blaster.




:: Plunger Padding ::

Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.

This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impact on the bolt (hence the loud cracking sound during firing), many users of modded Recons have experienced bolts eventually punching a hole out of the back of the plungers!

Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.

In the following photo, soft rubber padding is attached to the base of the plunger.



The 20mm diameter soft rubber/foam pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.



Make sure to only use soft rubber pads that are easy to compress, so that it can allow the bolt to move backwards fully for proper loading/unloading of magazines and chambering of darts.

Experiment with various plunger padding methods to help maintain the durability of AR removed blasters over long-term usage.


:: Spring Replacement ::

One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the bolt is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.

There are many different springs with different sizes and spring force ratings. Springs can be sourced from your local spring supply shops. Spring choice will depend on your usage.

This example below shows a stock spring (top photo) vs. an aftermarket 6kg load spring (bottom photo).



Stronger springs are usually made of thicker wires. Adjustments may have to be done as required for smooth firing operation.

Depending on the strength of the spring used, extra catch springs may also need to be added to hold the increased tension.

Note that a stronger spring will require more effort to prime the blaster before each shot, and the impact of the plunger on the bolt and overall stress on the blaster casing is also much greater. It'll be important to account for these factors when doing a spring replacement.


:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).

Stock Recon
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft

Modded Recon (AR Removal & 6kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Note that the test was done indoors with customized foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

356 comments:

  1. Hi, my modded Nerf Recon (AR removal) achieved 60 ft. outdoors with streamline darts with your help! But instead of spring replacement, I simply pulled the stock spring making it longer, causing it to deliver more tension. A bit of advice for Nerf modders with no money! :)
    Thanks for the instructions!

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  2. I get suitable sized rubber/foam padding from my local hardware stores, they are usually called "anti-slip" or "sound-dampening" pads, for use with furniture or household items.

    My aftermarket springs are sourced from various hardware stores and spring manufacturers around my area.

    Just do an online or business directory check on such companies around your area, give them a call and visit them to check out what springs they have.

    Remember to bring along your stock springs for comparison to ensure that you get aftermarket springs which can properly fit your blasters. :)

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  3. Nerf Man:

    The dense foam 20mm diameter padding i got was around SGD$3-4 bucks for a pack of 20 pads.

    Suitable aftermarket springs range from SGD$5-$15, depending on type of metal and design. Custom made versions will cost more.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Mitchell:

    You mean the springs inside of toilet roll holders? Not sure if it fits well, but you could give it a try and post up your results. :)

    As for felt pads, they could be used for plunger padding too, but i've found that they usually can't compress as flat as dense foam pads. If the felt pad is too thick, the bolt can't be pulled back far enough to load and unload the magazines, too thin and it wouldn't provide sufficient padding.

    So its best to keep testing it out to find the best fit.

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  5. For the Recon or Raider, the soft rubber padding should be 20mm in diameter to fit properly into the plunger.

    The springs used have to have an outside diameter (OD) of no more than 28mm and an inside diameter (ID) of no less than 25mm. There is very limited space in the Recon/Raider spring compartments so you'll need a perfect fit.

    As i mentioned, bring your stock spring along to make sure the aftermarket spring is compatible in dimensions.

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  6. For spring selection, the ideal metal is steel wire (avoid music wire, it tends to rust quite quickly).

    The spring's ends should be closed and ground, basically the spring should stand straight on its own when its placed vertically.

    For proper fit in the Recon or Raider, i've found that the spring wire diameter shouldn't be more than 1.6mm, this is due to the very limited space between the plunger and casing.

    Try make sure the aftermarket spring matches the stock spring both in its free length and compressed length (that will also determine the space between coils by the spring supplier), so that the bolt can still be pulled back fully for proper loading and unloading of the magazine.

    Hope that helps! :)

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  7. The current aftermarket spring i'm using is around 110mm in length (stock spring is around 120mm). Approx. load at solid height is around 14-15 Lb.

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  8. I heard that the yellow longshot's spring sucks... Is it true? Your distance data above is based on the yellow longshot right? Also, is the recon's spring better?

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  9. Nerf Man: Yup, its just a tiny air release hole at the right side of the bolt. You can just cover it with tape or some epoxy, though i've not found any noticeable difference in range or dart velocity whether its covered or not.

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  10. roy: Well, i have had a few sets of both the Blue and Yellow Longshots, and have test fired them side-by-side. Both displayed around the same stock range. So in my experience the stock springs have pretty much the same power in both versions.

    My stock distance data posted over at the Longshot Mod Guide are average figures for both Yellow and Blue Longshots.

    A stock Recon spring has a slightly lower spring rate than a stock Longshot spring, it is sized to fit in the Recon so its also shorter than a Longshot spring.

    ReplyDelete
  11. hey sg, i was wondering if either of the things left of the trigger were of any use, i took mine out and now it wont shoot normally, (the little thing that holds the bullet in place wont keep it in place, little tab that keeps it from going outside of the barrel after being cocked) how can i fix that?

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  12. Hey sg, I'm having some problems with my recon, when I cock it sometimes the darts stay sometimes they go out of the barrel upon forward cocking. I only removed the air restrictors and the two tabs that contained springs that were to the left of the trigger, how can I fix this?

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  13. Put back the small springs and ensure that everything is fitted correctly, then test your Recon again. The pop-up blocker plate has to be working in order to ensure that the streamline darts are blocked and chambered properly into the bolt for a good air seal.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Hi SG! Your tutorial seems to be the clearest out of all the ones online, so I'm planning to do a Longstrike mod similar in design to the Recon mod you've shown here.

    That being said, I noticed that you mentioned knocking out the retaining pin that holds the bolt and the bolt sled. Do you just stick that back in the assembly once you're done?

    Also, is the base of the plunger simply the far right side of the bolt sled assembly shown in Step 2? I'm looking for the right place to attach the rubber padding to the plunger. If I'm right, would it be on the outside or the inside of this area? Thanks for helping out!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Firstname,

    Yes, you definitely have to put the metal retaining pin back, thats what holds the bolt and bolt sled together.

    The soft padding has to be placed at the inside base of the plunger, thats where all the impact occurs when firing.

    Make sure the padding fits the inside diameter of the plunger and then just drop it into the plunger, then ensure it stays positioned at the base of the plunger.

    ReplyDelete
  16. I have been curious, as I have read more and more of your modification guides, have you ever experimented with case filling?

    Which is to say filling the open air space in your guns to reduce noise and increase weight.

    I have been tempted but I felt it necessary to seek a second opinion first.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Yup, nerfers call it "silencing" the blaster.

    I've briefly tested using Foam Backer Rod (FBR) cut into sections and stuffed into the hollow spaces of my blasters. I did notice slightly less noise when firing, though it wasn't a significant reduction in my case.

    I guess results would largely depend on the type and installation method of sound absorbtion material used, so do try it and see how it works out for your blasters. :)

    ReplyDelete
  18. Hi SG,

    I drilled out the air restrictor so there's a big hole where it used to be. How much farther SHOULD it shoot? I didn't replace the spring.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I've done some tests with Recons that have just the AR removed only (but still using stock spring), the average ranges i observed was around 35-40ft when fired parallel-to-ground (PTG). Firing at elevated angles (ATG) would get abit more distance, around 45-50ft. You should also notice that the dart velocity is noticeably faster too.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi again SG,

    I did the AR drill-out and put the gun back together, it works just fine except for the fact that every time I load my gun the dart bumps against the tab that prevents darts from falling out. The tab refuses to relent unless a considerable amount of force is applied (bending the darts), THEN does the slide go all the way forward.

    What's wrong, do you know?

    ReplyDelete
  21. Hmmm....even though the bolt type of the Recon and Longstrike are relatively the same, are there any kind of differences between the two when trying to remove the AR?

    Also, is it true that, instead of buying aftermarket springs, moving the end of the spring an inch forward (by putting cut PVC in the spring catch)the spring will be more powerful?

    It'll be great if ya made a Longstrike Mod Guide :D

    ReplyDelete
  22. Yinan,

    Blaster components that jam or don't move as smoothly as before are simply indications that they are not installed properly or mis-aligned.

    Just open up your casing again and make sure all the components are installed and aligned properly, ensure that all the small parts springs are installed properly too.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Ckp,

    The ARs in both the Longshot and Recon are similiar in configuration, but there are various unique options to remove them. Just compare my Longshot and Recon mod guides to see the examples.

    If you install something to pre-compress the spring, although there would be more resistance felt, the spring's strength is still the same. Its not that significant enough to produce much of an improvement.

    Stronger aftermarket springs would produce much more significant results.

    I might make a Longstrike mod guide soon, but it'll be almost exactly the same as a Recon mod guide anyways, so in the meantime, just use the Recon mod guide as a reference. :)

    ReplyDelete
  24. Thanks SG, I'm currently moding my Longstrike at the moment since I'm not totally satisfied with its power and distance.

    Last question. If I do the hot water method for AR removal, will hot melt glue be fine for joining the pieces together?

    ReplyDelete
  25. To join the 2 pieces of the bolt, you'll need much stronger glue, as the bolt will be under load stress when priming the blaster.

    I'd recommend using strong 2-part epoxy glue, the stronger the better. :)

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  26. Is there a mod I can do to the barrel extension of the Recon to close off the dead space and make the barrel extension actually useful/not harmful to dart trajectory?

    Thanks SG!

    ReplyDelete
  27. Yes, its possible to mod the breech and barrel so that they connect to form a direct seal straight through.

    One of the more popular techniques is commonly called the "Angel Breech" mod.

    Here is a link to the "Angel Breech" mod guide, by Forsaken_angel24:

    http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8021

    ReplyDelete
  28. Hey SG NERF,

    I was wondering if you could attach a recon barrel to the front of a maverick? Thanks

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  29. Gartha Theblu,

    Nope, the Maverick cannot attach any of the N-Strike blaster barrels.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Hey SG,

    I've heard people talk about adding barrels made out of brass or PVC to the front of their blasters. What would it do? Thanks

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  31. Gartha Theblu,

    The objective of adding barrels made of pvc or brass to blasters is usually to help improve accuracy, but results will depend on using the right tube internal diameter to match the foam darts and blaster power.

    In addition, if it is not part of a fully air-tight breech system, the replaced barrel may not work optimally (ie. reduced range) due to air loss, friction and back-pressure.

    Just a heads-up, i'll be posting a mod guide for a complete air-tight brass breech system for the Longshot soon. Stay tuned for it. :)

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  32. Man, no-one should be allowed to use their Recon without these mods! The stock Recon has a dismal range and performance, but these mods nearly double it's performance stats! Thanks for posting these!!

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  33. Any comment on the longevity of a Recon's plunger with the AR removed and padding added, versus the stock Recon? Will appropriate padding reduce wear and tear to about the same level, and have you known Recon plungers to break even when padding is added?

    ReplyDelete
  34. Paragon19,

    From my own experience, with proper padding added, the plungers in my modded Recons are still intact after months of heavy game usage. So far so good. :)

    ReplyDelete
  35. Hey SG Nerf, I can't find similar pads so is it alright if i just used soft foam like a regular sponge instead?

    ReplyDelete
  36. Shaun,

    Well, i'd recommend getting foam pads that have good shock absorption properties, as those would work the best to protect the plunger.

    But you could try other types of padding material too, the only way to know if it works is to try it out. :)

    ReplyDelete
  37. i modded my raider cs 35 and when i put it back together, i cannot cock the mechanism. what is the problem?

    ReplyDelete
  38. Ernest,

    One or more of the internal components in your Raider is either not installed properly or mis-aligned. Open it up and check again.

    ReplyDelete
  39. how do you put the "back cover" for the plunger idk what is that called, there are four sides, which side should face up?

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  40. Ernest,

    The back cover should be installed with the U shaped opening in an inverted position.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Can you use a AR-15 assault rifle spring?

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  42. heroic,

    I've not tested that out yet, but I think the AR-15 action spring might be too narrow to properly fit around the plungers in reverse-plunger systems. You could try it out to confirm though.

    ReplyDelete
  43. hi im thinking of doing the ar removal mod but when my friend did it his recon broke . i think he only did the ar removal and he didnt put any padding on the plunger do you know where he went wrong.
    also do you know how long the blasters usually last after doing the ar , Plunger Padding and Spring Replacement mods

    ReplyDelete
  44. tom,

    Yup, most plunger breakages occur because no padding (or insufficient padding) was put into the plunger to absorb the impacts.

    Try to get the "Volkmar-Fix" brand of 20mm diameter soft rubber/foam pads that i use in the mod guide. It works very well.

    So far, i've been using my modded blasters for over a year in many games and all are still working perfectly.

    ReplyDelete
  45. thanks for the help, cannot wait to see the results of the modding :)

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  46. Can you do the plunger padding mod on the longstrike?

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  47. Galen,

    Yup, the Longstrike's plunger has a similiar internal diameter as the Recon plunger, so you can use the same padding material and diameter for the Longstrike too.

    ReplyDelete
  48. If im gonna replace the spring in another gun, eg the maverick, its all the same principles right? Just replace it with a spring that fits. ?

    ReplyDelete
  49. scroteey,

    Yes, the same modding principles apply, just adapt them to the various blaster models.

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  50. i used a similar foam padding, but I still hear a fairly loud crack upon firing the gun... is this normal, or should i use more/stronger padding?

    ReplyDelete
  51. Hunterer,

    Although padding the plunger will help absorb the impact forces and perhaps lessen the sound slightly, the loud impact sound will still be there... its normal.

    After a while, you'll get used to it. Its what we Nerf modders call... the "Modding Ear" effect. :)

    ReplyDelete
  52. thanks, and I like it, it's almost as satisfying as a real gunshot noise >:-)

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  53. Can u use the sticky sponge pieces used for art to cushion the plunger?

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  54. Devon,

    You could try using art craft sponge pieces too, give it a test and see if it helps to cushion the plunger impact.

    ReplyDelete
  55. Hey I was just wondering wha your thoughts were on the mehod of just drilling the ar out, and also how many pads thick did you put in the plunger?

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  56. How can I tell if padding I used is cushioning the plungers enough?

    ReplyDelete
  57. Dan,

    Drilling the AR out is a common method that many modders use, it does the job.

    Only thing is its abit messier, requires a drill and needs some care during the process in order not to damage the bolt.

    I usually put just 1 layer of padding (based on the Volkmar-Fix brand pads), 'cos i've found that more layers tend to restrict the bolt being pulled back completely for proper loading and unloading of clips.

    Its best to test various layers of padding to find the best combination for your usage.

    ReplyDelete
  58. Devon,

    Well, its not an exact science... i guess the main method most of us modders use to find out if a padding works, is to just use the blaster for a few months and observe if the plunger is still intact!

    Yup, its all though trial and error... and experience. :)

    ReplyDelete
  59. in the nerf longstrike, does the l bolt need support? and how many pads should i put in the barrel if i am going to pad it?

    ReplyDelete
  60. Scott,

    If you are using very strong springs, then it'll be recommended to add support braces or reinforcements to the bolt sled.

    As for the plunger padding, just try with 1 layer of padding first, then add more if you prefer for extra cushioning. Keep testing to make sure the bolt movement isn't blocked by too much padding though.

    ReplyDelete
  61. can i use either a nitefinder or BB rapid fire spring to replace that aftermarket spring?in this case,will you reccomend me the BB rapid fire spring or the nitefinder spring?

    ReplyDelete
  62. weaponhazard,

    Yup, you can try adding either springs in your Longshot, along with the stock spring too. See which spring combination provides more improvement.

    ReplyDelete
  63. I modded my recon 2 have a shotgun pump handle, auto-eject mag, AR removal, taped tube(yes u can do that to the recon)and cover removal!! goes at least 55ft, and without aftermarket springs

    ReplyDelete
  64. Can you increase performance without any internal modding??

    ReplyDelete
  65. Hey, SG!

    Can electrical/duct tape be used as an alternative to epoxy glue?

    Is there a tutorial to assembling the Recon back together? I'm scared to mess up and break the gun...

    ReplyDelete
  66. Sebastian,

    Well, the plunger and bolt system is housed within the blaster's casing, so i can't see any viable way of significantly increasing the performance without modding the internal components.

    ReplyDelete
  67. Kenny,

    Using electical or duct tape to attach back the 2 seperated bolt parts? I guess you could try it, but its not an ideal method of securing that part, due to the relatively weaker adhesiveness of tape.

    I would still recommended to use strong glue for a more permanent and secure attachment.

    ReplyDelete
  68. Hi! Nice site! I didn't have the epoxy or the pipe cutter, but a nice 1/2" drill bit did a good job tearing out the AR. I used an 18" long, 1/2 drill bit, and used a pair of channel-lock pliers to keep the barrel from slipping. I carefully bored out the entire AR assembly from the rear. :)

    ReplyDelete
  69. Can an angel breach mod be done on a pistol recon?

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  70. vanessa,

    Yes, an air-tight brass breech system can also be installed in a Recon. Its basically done the same way as a Longshot brass breech mod, simply measure the original Recon bolt dimensions and adjust the brass bolt measurements accordingly.

    Note that air-tight breeches work best in large direct plunger blasters like the Longshot, as these blasters have the large volumes of air required to propel the foam dart to accelerate all the way though barrel.

    On the other hand, if installed on smaller reverse plunger blasters like the Recon, the effect tends to be insignificant and can actually be negative too, often in longer barrel setups, the foam darts don't even have enough power to fire out of the barrel, the smaller plunger air volume simply does not have enough air to push the foam darts all the way through the barrel.

    So thats something to consider when planning on brass breech mods.

    ReplyDelete
  71. another question . . .
    how thick is your padding??

    ReplyDelete
  72. Sebastian,

    I usually use just 1 layer of the "Volkmar-Fix" soft padding for my Recon plungers. The thickness of a layer of that padding is around 3-4mm.

    I find that it can offer sufficient cushioning and yet still allows the bolt to be pulled back far enough for proper loading and unloading of clips.

    The ideal thickness of plunger padding can differ from blaster to blaster (even amongst the same models), so you'll have to just test and see what padding thickness suits your particular blaster.

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  73. Note! If anyone plans on drilling make it a fast! my ar was removeed slowly and that caused the plastrtic to melt which rand down the tube making it thick at the end which the nerf daers are inserted so now every time it fires it fires under ten feet.P.S does any one know where i can buy that tube because i dont want to fork out another £22 ( i live in britain)

    ReplyDelete
  74. AKAJeffrey12,

    To remove the small metal pin, just use a small screwdriver and hammer.

    Simply tap it out carefully from one side.

    ReplyDelete
  75. Thanks for the tips, i'mm mod'ing a recon and maverik (maverik will be steampunk style) for a high school "Nerf Debate Club"!! :P

    ReplyDelete
  76. whats is the funtion of the plunger padding?-......i am working on my recon, i do the work of air restrictor and work very well, thanks for all the help =D....but to me not work the "hot water metod"......`hehe

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  77. sgnerffan,

    As written in my mod guide:

    "Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.

    This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger, by both normal firing and dry firing.

    Due to repeated direct impact on the bolt (hence the loud cracking sound during firing), many users of modded Recons have experienced bolts eventually punching a hole out of the back of the plungers!

    Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact."

    So the bottom line is... put soft padding in your modded blaster's plunger or risk it breaking very soon.

    ReplyDelete
  78. I stretched the stock spring too far, and now the plunger isn't hooking to the peice in the back. How can I fix this? I tried using ductape around it to add some kinda grab, but no luck so far. Should I just buy another spring? Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  79. Instead of drilling the AR out, I cut the bolt with a hacksaw nearly in half to get it out, then used electric tape to put it back together. Was this a really bad mistake? Also, I stretched the spring too far in a attempt to add tension. How can I fix this? Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  80. felix,

    One of the reasons why reverse plungers can't catch properly is because the spring is interfering with the catching mechanism.

    Stretching the stock spring can create this interference because the spring becomes out of shape and when compressed, gets tangled with the catch system or blocks it from catching.

    Imho, stretching springs isn't a solution for improvements as the springs will eventually return back to their original shape, and it can end up weakening the spring too.

    An option is to allow the spring to return back to its original shape, but quite often stretched springs become permanently damaged. So i guess you should just get a new spring.

    Don't stretch springs anymore, get proper higher strength springs as replacements instead.

    ReplyDelete
  81. insanefrenzy,

    Well, if you cut the bolt directly in half to remove the AR, you'll have to use something much more secure than just electrical tape to join back the 2 sections.

    Use strong plastic glue or 2-part epoxy glue to properly join back the 2 sections, that will ensure that the bolt is strong enough to perform its priming and chambering process.

    As i mentioned in my previous comment, stretching springs isn't a solution for improvements as the springs can end up weakened and out of shape.

    Use proper higher strength springs as replacements instead.

    ReplyDelete
  82. Hey SGNerf,

    I took apart my Recon, and all I did was extend the spring. But, when I put the gun back together, it wouldn't cock! Then, I went back and un-extended the spring (I pressed it inwards a lot untill it was almost the same length as stock springs), but when I put it back together, it STILL won't cock! The gray slide only moves back about 1/2 cm. I have watched videos and looked at photos, and I am pretty sure I put all the parts back together correctly...PLEASE HELP!!!

    Thanks,
    Jesse

    ReplyDelete
  83. Jesse,

    As i mentioned in my earlier comments, stretching springs isn't effective. It will tend to make them out-of-shape and end up interfering with the catch system.

    Perhaps you should get another spring 'cos it sounds like your current out-of-shape spring is jamming up the plunger movement.

    ReplyDelete
  84. I can't get one of my screws out from the recon shell, its like.. screwed in so darn tightly I can't even get it to move with my screwdriver when I force it. Ps, my screwdriver is not warn out. Pls help:(

    ReplyDelete
  85. Ryan =],

    I'm guessing you are using a small precision screwdriver which only has space for your fingers to turn it.

    Use a screwdriver with a longer handle so you can grip it with your hand and twist with more arm strength.

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  86. Yah my plunger just broke with the wear and tear. I guess I need to buy some pads!

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  87. How on earth do you get the retaining pin out?!?!?

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  88. Sorry for that approach.....
    I am using the "Hot Water" method as I don't have a pipe cutter. Sadly I cannot get the retaining pin out nor can I separate the two bolt parts.
    =(

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  89. sam,

    Use a hammer and a precision screwdriver, then carefully tap the metal pin out. It'll get pushed out eventually, then just use a pair of pliers to pull it out.

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  90. Hey!! It really worked!! Tanks a lot!! =D

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  91. Hi, me and my dad were going to do the mods in this guide but he said no because of safety reasons, is there any way that I can improve the range but not more powerful. I will be very grateful for an answer!
    Thank you

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  92. FFlashThunderAirsoft,

    Well, if you can't mod your blasters for more power, then i guess an alternative option could be to improve the air seal of your foam darts in the bolt.

    One method is to push the foam dart further into the bolt, it can help improve range abit. Another method could be to wrap your foam darts in a layer of tape to increase it's outer diameter for a tighter air seal in the bolt.

    Try it and see if it improves the range for you. :)

    ReplyDelete
  93. Ok, I'll try the tape method, Will electrical tape work?
    Thank you

    ReplyDelete
  94. FFlashThunderAirsoft,

    You could try electrical tape. Perhaps also test with duct tape or matt/glossy tape too, see if they work.

    ReplyDelete
  95. SG Nerf,

    Will felt pads work as a substitute for rubber/foam pads

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  96. tibbertsma,

    You could use felt pads, but the issue is that felt pads usually cannot compress as flat as soft rubber/foam pads. This may cause the bolt to be blocked from opening fully and result in difficulty when loading and unloading clips.

    Its best to get soft rubber/foam pads which can compress flat and are designed to absorb impact.

    ReplyDelete
  97. Hey, SG. I'm having a serious problem. I've gotten all the screws out, except one. It's the one in the bottom left corner of the gun, according to the position of the gun in the 1st picture (except closed) i went too far and destroyed the head of the screw, then went foward to use a screwdriver to try and shave out the screw. now i've given up on that and wasted time googling with no results. i've poured my creativity into figuring out how to remove that onbe pesky screw, and have used each philips head screwdriver in the house (i've no idea if my dad will let me use the drill or if he will even aprove of me modding my recon) but to no avail. i'm just hoping my recon isn't toast in this situation. hope u can help me.

    ReplyDelete
  98. raisora144,

    Some alternatives... use a compact handsaw and saw the stuck screw in half, or simply pull the casing apart to break the screw threads, though it might damage the casing.

    Just be careful when using hobby tools.

    ReplyDelete
  99. SG Nerf,

    Is any additional padding needed if only the spring is replaced?
    Also will there be a noticeable difference in performance with a new spring but no ar removal?

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  100. lllzzzttt,

    Plunger padding is still recommended even if the AR is intact after its replaced with a stronger spring, as the impact on the components when its fired is still higher than with the stock spring.

    If the AR is not removed, but the spring is replaced with a stronger version, there will be some improvement in the range but it would not be as significant as if the AR is removed too, due to the overall air flow still being restricted.

    ReplyDelete
  101. Hey, I've tried replacing the spring with the one I bought from black-tactical.com, and I have problems cocking the gun. It doesn't lock into the position for me to load the gun and just slams back into place. Any suggestions? It was pretty expensive for a spring so I really intend to make use of it!

    ReplyDelete
  102. nixihz,

    Since you purchased the aftermarket spring from them, they would be most familiar with the exact specs and fitment of the spring, so the best solution for you is to check back with them for advice on how to solve it.

    ReplyDelete
  103. Will packaging foam work for padding the plunger?

    ReplyDelete
  104. joel,

    Possible, you'll just have to test it out to see if it works well for your blaster.

    ReplyDelete
  105. I had a Maverick that had a worn-out spring, and I was going to mod it, when I accidentally pulled the Catch Spring, and it got bent and ruined. Where can I get a replacement one?

    ReplyDelete
  106. Zak64,

    Try and see if you can find a small spring from a ballpoint pen that can fit it.

    Alternatively, check at the hardware stores or spring supply stores around your area.

    ReplyDelete
  107. SGNerf, I am experiencing some problems with my 6-month-old Recon CS-6 which is not modified. When I leave a clip in the loading space of the blaster for a day without cocking it, and try to slide the cocking mechanism, the dart bends, and ends up jamming the whole gun. I take out the clip, and the tip of the topmost dart in the clip is frayed from the foam. I am using stock Streamline darts. What is the problem, and how do I fix it?

    ReplyDelete
  108. SRSR333.

    It seems the foam darts you used are either damaged of bent, don't use those as they tend to cause jams, use foam darts that are in good condition.

    In addition, don't leave foam darts in clips and loaded in blasters for a day or more, 'cos the foam darts would tend to get deformed and the clip spring will weaken over time.

    ReplyDelete
  109. Can I use craft foam for padding? If so, how do you think I should attach it to the inside of the plunger?

    ReplyDelete
  110. Erik,

    You can try craft padding too, just cut a 20mm diameter circle piece and attach it inside the plunger base with some double-sided tape.

    ReplyDelete
  111. Also, SGNerf, whenever I cock my Recon (Which now has it's AR removed), the bolt kind of "cuts into" the top of the second dart to be fired, say if I've got six darts in the clip. What I mean is that when the gun is being cocked, the tip of the dart which is underneath the bolt has the tip slightly cut away as the bolt presses into it. This occurs for all darts in the clip except the first. This is happening for some time now, even before I modded it. Why is it happening and how do I fix it?

    ReplyDelete
  112. SRSR333,

    The bolt should not be positioned in such a way to actually cut so much into the foam darts during chambering.

    It seems you might have gotten a faulty Recon in the beginning, or perhaps the bolt system was mis-aligned during usage.

    ReplyDelete
  113. SGNERF, i had already put a pad into the plunger but the back of the plunger still popped out.. do u know how to fix it?

    ReplyDelete
  114. Fazmie,

    You could try gluing it back with high strength 2-part epoxy glue, make sure it cures properly before testing.

    Or you could try replacing the broken end with a PVC pipe end cap, glue it to the back of the original plunger and see if it works.

    Either way, if you manage to fix it, use more plunger padding or padding that can absorb impact better.

    ReplyDelete
  115. thnks.. do u have spare part for the plunger??

    ReplyDelete
  116. Fazmie,

    Nope, i don't have any spare Recon plungers.

    ReplyDelete
  117. do u know anywhere i can buy a spring to increase the range of the longstrike? my friend moded his longstrike but i do not know how

    ReplyDelete
  118. Erickin,

    If you are in Singapore, check out the NerfSG forum (www.nerfsg.com) trading section, there are modders there with aftermarket springs available in their sales threads.

    ReplyDelete
  119. SGNerf, I found the problem to my dart-cut-by-bolt problem. The spring in my clips are too strong, so it pushes the next dart so much such that it is actually cut. So, should I weaken the springs in my clips and how so?

    ReplyDelete
  120. SRSR333,

    I'm not sure if that's a good idea, 'cos i've never encountered Recon bolts cutting into darts like you have mentioned, that is a problem issue with the blaster that you have to solve.

    Most users actually want their clip springs to be stronger so that darts can get into position quickly.

    You should solve the issue on your blaster first rather than weaken the spring in a properly working clip.

    ReplyDelete
  121. I'll put padding in my gun...after taking out the air restrictor, but I'm still not understanding the reason behind the increased force on the plunger whenever you fire an AR removed blaster...
    Or is that for recon's with stronger springs also?
    And last, is padding needed on a maverick? The air restrictors on that are in the revolving barrels and not the plunger tube...

    ReplyDelete
  122. kelvin,

    As mentioned in the mod guides, the air restrictor (AR) is designed to create an air buffer system to cushion the impact of the plunger on the bolt. After a dart is fired or if no dart is chambered, the air restrictor becomes closed (there is a spring valve-type system in the AR), so no air can be channeled through and instead the air is kept within the plunger, thereby slowing it down.

    Here is a simple experiment... take a bicycle pump, block the output nozzle and try to pump it, notice the resistance and how slow the plunger becomes? Thats what an AR does.

    Whether you use stock or aftermarket springs, once the AR is removed, if you don't put sufficient padding in the plunger base, the increased plunger to bolt impact will result in damage over time.

    Its the same with the Maverick, if you remove the ARs in the barrels, you should add some padding to the plunger base to protect it.

    ReplyDelete
  123. Well, I compared the innards of my Recon to the pictures here... there seems to be nothing wrong with my blaster bolt alignment or anything else?! Anyways, here are photos of my clips and darts in Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=7873&id=100001829960831&l=c301bb5bb4

    ReplyDelete
  124. Ah, I understand now. The air restrictor closes upon firing, keeping the air inside the plunger.
    I thought it was just a physical obstacle to reduce the speed of the air as it makes its way to the dart. Like a filter rather than a dam.
    I'm going to go buy padding for my maverick now....I thought it was louder ever since I modded it 2 weeks ago....
    :X

    ReplyDelete
  125. SRSR333,

    The streamline darts you are using look abit worn out, they seem to be getting squashed up higher in the clip. Sometimes when streamline darts are worn out the foam material softens and gets squashed easily.

    Perhaps you can try using new streamline darts instead, might help.

    Alternatively, just pop by any of the NerfSG organized Nerf game one of these weekends and the modders attending can check it out and help you solve it.

    ReplyDelete
  126. SGNerf, I took your advice and tried using newer darts- well, the darts were not exactly new, they were in the same batch of 36 darts that I bought 7 months ago. They went up to nearly 75 feet, and with absolutely no jamming issues! Thanks a lot!!! (But why is it that so called "torn" darts jam in Recons only? I've tried the same darts in a unmodded Longstrike and they don't!)

    ReplyDelete
  127. And secondly, I've got a question, SGNerf. Why are Stefans usually shorter than stock streamline darts? And how do you make 'em?

    ReplyDelete
  128. SRSR333,

    Yeah, worn out foam darts have a higher tendency to get out of shape easily which cause jams and reduced performance, it also depends on the blasters they are used in, individual blasters can sometimes differ in their dart fit too.

    As for why Modders usually make their stefans shorter than stock Nerf darts, its mainly for improving the weight balance with heavier tip weights to achieve better range and accuracy.

    ReplyDelete
  129. SRSR333,

    Stefans are made using foam backer rod (FBR) which are cut into sections and their tips attached with various tip weights to calibrate for range and accuracy.

    Note that different foam and tip weight combinations will produce different results in different blasters, so it's all a matter of testing and customizing to get the most optimal stefan design to match your particular blasters.

    ReplyDelete
  130. For alot of you people asking about the foam pads, I found an old mouse pad and some precision cutting does the job just fine.

    ReplyDelete
  131. hey SG,
    is it possible to remove the AR without cutting the bolt?
    Thanks
    supersonic_1997

    ReplyDelete
  132. Shravan Krishnan,

    Well, if you have a drill, you could also drill out the AR. Just be careful not to damage the bolt in the process.

    ReplyDelete
  133. I am kinda new to modding, and have a question about aftermarket springs. I understand that they are thick wires, which makes it stronger. Does it matter how many coils (say, per inch) that the spring has? I noticed in the mod here, the new spring has fewer.

    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  134. Brian,

    The number and position of coils depends on the design of the spring by the spring manufacturer to achieve the desired fit, spring load and spring compression characteristics, it can differ from spring to spring.

    ReplyDelete
  135. HI SG,

    i read in your other post that the deploy is similar in design to the Recon.

    Would removing the AR on the deploy be as you noted for this one?

    Can you explain the drilling method that you mentioned in the response to Shravan?

    Thanks,

    ReplyDelete
  136. MrHossie,

    Very simple, just remove the plastic bolt, take a drill and then drill right though the AR inside the bolt.

    ReplyDelete
  137. i tried to modify my maverick but i lost the rod that helps the gun to be cocked. is there any household items that can replace it?pls reply by tonite

    ReplyDelete
  138. Adil,

    Perhaps you can try getting a steel nail and then cut away the sharp tip, maybe that could be a suitable replacement for the original metal rod.

    ReplyDelete
  139. Hey, SGNerf, I've got a question. This time, I'm using brand-new darts and all, but my Recon still chips away a bit of the foam of my darts at the joining part between the orange tip and peach foam. What's happening? Should I melt the front part of the bolt, where it kind of bends up slightly, and make it blunt? Because my bolt's bottom of the front opening is quite sharp. Or is there another method to blunt the bolt? I'll send a link of a picture of my bolt soon. (My Recon is being painted)

    ReplyDelete
  140. Oh, and another question. Is superglue fine to use if re-attaching broken parts? Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  141. SRSR333,

    Well, if you have been spending alot of time to troubleshoot it and it still has that issue, i guess your Recon parts are just chronically misaligned.

    I would simply recommend you to just get a new Recon which works properly out of the box.

    No point going through all the hassle and wasting time trying to fix a problematic blaster still may still not work properly at the end.

    Superglue can be used to fix some small parts but if the components will be under mechanical stress or load, i would use high strength 2-part epoxy glue instead.

    ReplyDelete
  142. Thanks a lot. I think I need to get a new Nerf blaster soon. Any recommendations for blasters costing less than $75?

    ReplyDelete
  143. SRSR333,

    Get a Nerf Stampede, with holiday promos and discounts at the various dept stores you might be able to find it at good pricings, just scout around for the best deals.

    ReplyDelete
  144. My Plunger cap fell out. I Got a quote from a metal worker and the price of getting a cast was
    $50-$150 AUD. Where did you get your metal plunger from? I am going to try super glue

    ReplyDelete
  145. Mitchey,

    The aluminium plunger i got was from a NerfSG member called "Zinv" who contracted a local metal fabrication company to custom make the aluminium plungers in bulk. You could check with him about it over at the NerfSG forum.

    ReplyDelete
  146. I have modded my recon (not this mod) but I stretched out the spring and now cant attach the black thing but if i do the gun wont cock any ideas? please reply.

    ReplyDelete
  147. Ad man,

    Stretching springs is not a good idea 'cos it causes the springs to become weakened and mis-shapen.

    Looks like your spring is now out-of-shape, so my advice is to get a new spring and replace it.

    ReplyDelete
  148. Hi can i know where to get thicker springs for the longstrike?Does black tactical sells it?

    ReplyDelete
  149. jerome,

    Yes, you can enquire with Black Tactical, they sell suitable aftermarket springs too.

    ReplyDelete
  150. HI is there any other places that sells the longstrike thicker spring besides black tactical?

    ReplyDelete
  151. jerome,

    You can check at the NerfSG forum trading section, there are some modders there who may have aftermarket springs available for sale too.

    ReplyDelete
  152. thanks Sg ive got a new recon but is there any way that i can remove the air restrictor with out a drill or pipe cutter?

    ReplyDelete
  153. hey sg sorry for all the questions but can you post an extended clip guide??

    ReplyDelete
  154. Ad man,

    You could try knocking out the AR with a long neck screwdriver and a hammer. Just be careful not to damage the bolt in the process.

    As for extended clip mods, you can just do a search on such clip mods online, there are other modders who have posted up their own tutorials on how to make them.

    ReplyDelete
  155. Just a bit of an advice comment;

    With the AR removal, I didn't have a pipe cutter so I used a hacksaw to carefully cut the first layer of plastic off from that area. If you look really really closely, you can see when you are cutting into the second piece of plastic, as there's a lighter layer. I did this all the way around, pulled it apart, took the AR out, and superglued it back together. No problems related to that now!

    It did somehow manage to eat a streamline dart though.. the gun wouldn't cock so I pulled it apart and found a bullet above the trigger in the little free space there. Very strange...

    ReplyDelete
  156. Would one layer of craft foam work as plunger padding?

    ReplyDelete
  157. yks1277,

    It depends on the thickness of the craft foam you are using, just try it out and see if it works well.

    ReplyDelete
  158. Is it possible for the plunger to break even with the rubber padding? I am interested in modding my recon but I don't want to risk ruining the plunger.

    ReplyDelete
  159. kanametousen,

    Yes, its possible. Plunger padding only helps to reduce the chances of breakage, it does not prevent it completely.

    As i always say, expect things to break when you modify things... so mod at your own risk! :)

    ReplyDelete
  160. hey
    i just did the AR removal mod to my recon, and its actually WAY WAY weaker, what went wrong?
    i used the flat head screwdriver method to sort of push the AR out, did it maybe stretch the bolt? i cant figure it our
    let me know!
    thanks!
    :)

    ReplyDelete
  161. Cameron,

    Check that there is no blockage in the bolt and there are no cracks or gaps in the plastic parts which may leak air.

    Check the plunger o-ring, it must still be functional and provide a good air-tight seal.

    Check that the pop-up blocker plate in the front of the clip feed is working properly, all the small parts and springs have to be in place (not popping out halfway).

    ReplyDelete
  162. Hey SG, I was wondering if the Recon can still be damaged even without modding it, such as not taking out the AR.

    ReplyDelete
  163. bmd2297,

    Sure, its a plastic toy after all and their parts don't last forever. They'll still eventually degrade during usage over time.

    Modding it simply accelerates the parts wearing out and increases the chances of things breaking.

    ReplyDelete
  164. Also, can I use something other than Volkmar anti slip pads?

    ReplyDelete
  165. bmd2297,

    Yes, you can use any other suitable material to cushion the plunger, like foam bumpers for protecting furniture (usually found at hardware stores) or craft foam (from arts n' craft shops). Just make sure the material can absorb impact and compress flat easily.

    ReplyDelete
  166. Can anyone post a link to the types of pads and springs you guys have been using?

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  167. I'm new to mod-ing and I'm thinking isn't the rubber pad too small that it can fit through the hole at the end of the bolt and wont cushion impact instead? Kinda confused.

    ReplyDelete
  168. Is there any way to put two recon springs in one recon if you can't get a more powerful spring somewhere? It seems like when I try it, the two springs hug the plunger too tightly to expand normally.

    ReplyDelete
  169. 89,

    The 20mm diameter soft padding i use fits perfectly into the plunger tube. It is wider than the bolt so when the plunger tube hits the bolt tube, the soft padding would help absorb the impact.

    ReplyDelete
  170. Ian,

    The space for springs in reverse plunger blasters is very limited so using 2 springs would always tend to cause issues.

    You have to use just one stronger aftermarket spring for better blaster operation, and even then it has to fit around the plunger and within the casing perfectly to work properly.

    ReplyDelete
  171. What's an aftermarket spring?

    ReplyDelete
  172. 89,

    A spring that is not originally from a Nerf blaster.

    ReplyDelete
  173. Hey, SG.

    (cathylazarou is my mom's name, just ignore that...)

    I wanted to ask you. I did both the AR removal, as well as the hole-covering thing.

    But I used some thick FBR, cut to roughly 2mm in thickness, and just stuffed that into the black of the plunger-tube-thingy. (Yes, it is flat.) With the 'power stalk,' (a maverick spring inside a raider stalk), is my padding enough? I still have a stalk spring in the Recon, though...

    ReplyDelete
  174. cathylazarou,

    Some modders use FBR as plunger padding and they report varying effectiveness with them. I guess you'll just have to try it out and see if it works well.

    Though if possible, i'd still recommend using denser foam bumper material which tend to absorb impact better.

    ReplyDelete
  175. Thanks, SG. Btw, you can call me Athanasios. That's my name. :)

    So my plunger tube is already cracking.... :( I waited too long before putting in the padding... Should I get an alu tube, try fixing that one (how?), or just buy another recon?

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  176. Athanasios,

    Do register your own blogger account, its simple and fast, and easier for others to identify you. :)

    If your existing Recon plunger is already cracking, try using high strength 2-part epoxy glue to bond and seal the crack, then put better padding to help prevent further damage.

    If you are willing to spend more, then by all means get an aluminium plunger or another Recon.

    ReplyDelete
  177. I live in greece. So where/how would I find epoxy glue? Or would I have to order it from amazon? If I do, would I just type in "epoxy glue"? How would I know that it is the correct one?

    And how do I register my own blogger account?

    Thank you for answering all my questions! Oh, and your modding set has GOT to be the clearest, cleanest one I've seen. You're mods, too, are VERY clean, clean cut, and asthetically pleasing. Great job!

    Athanasios

    ReplyDelete
  178. Athanasios,

    You can get 2-part epoxy glue from most hardware stores, just ask the store staff for it and they will be able to advise you further. Try to get the highest strength versions that you can find.

    Just register your own gmail account and then log into blogger.com:

    www.gmail.com
    www.blogger.com

    Btw, thanks for the kind feedback! :)

    ReplyDelete
  179. Hey, is this it, SG?

    http://www.amazon.com/All-Fix-Part-Epoxy-Putty-Purpose/dp/B000UMQ06G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1294830923&sr=8-2

    ?

    ReplyDelete
  180. Athanasios,

    That link you posted is for epoxy putty, its designed more for filling gaps.

    You should be looking for 2-part epoxy glue, something like this:

    http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Araldite-Super-Strength/default.aspx

    ReplyDelete
  181. SG plz help!! I modded the air restrictors and put the padding in but now it won't cock back as easy as it should. It is extremely hard to cock back. I've opened it up and everything is fine. And when it does cock back, it doesn't cock back all the way.

    ReplyDelete
  182. Aidan,

    The padding you used is either too thick or too dense (and can't be compressed flat easily).

    As mentioned in my Mod Guide:

    "Make sure to only use soft rubber pads that are easy to compress, so that it can allow the bolt to move backwards fully for proper loading/unloading of magazines and chambering of darts."

    Either trim the padding thinner or use softer padding that can compress easily.

    ReplyDelete
  183. Hey SG, will a sponge work to cushion impact or is it just to compressible?

    ReplyDelete
  184. How do I get the padding out now? It has an adhesive on one side.

    ReplyDelete
  185. Never mind 2nd question. Got it out! Thanks!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  186. 89,

    Depends on the material and density of the sponge you are using, just have to test and see.

    Imho, its still better to use foam bumper material which can absorb impact better.

    ReplyDelete
  187. I can not get the retaining pin out with the hammer/screwdriver, how can I make it come out?

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  188. I followed your guide (minus adding in a spring)and had a piece of material to cushion the plunger until I can get something like you described. I fired it once to test it and now it wont lock back when I cock it. Ive taken it apart, made sure everything is in the correct spot, and cant figure what's preventing it from locking...

    ReplyDelete
  189. I did exactly this mod (without the spring replacement) and the gun shot AWESOMELY!

    I used streamlines, and in about a 30m hall, most darts didn't drop one bit.

    And, after about 20 shots, the back of the plunger gave way, and now my gun is broken :(
    And yes, I DID put in foam padding at the back of it. It's just too much stress. You can buy metal plungers for $50, but that's a bit expensive.

    I think I'll just extend/fix the back of the plunger, so the back doesn't even HIT the other part of the gun.

    Good mod though! Very nice instructions. Easy to follow! Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  190. Edward,

    Well, that's the only way i know how to remove the metal retaining pin, just by using a precision screwdriver and a hammer, then carefully tapping it out.

    I guess you'll just have to use abit more strength to knock it out in your unit.

    ReplyDelete
  191. Branin,

    Check that the catch plate and catch spring (the hoop behind the plunger tube) and all the parts are aligned properly.

    ReplyDelete
  192. Regarding the retaining pin, I found that my recon seems to have a tapered hole for the pin, which made it impossible for me to get in or out except from one side. Dunno if this is the same for other recons.

    I followed your guide for the ar removal and the padding (with some careful hacksawing cause I don't have a pipecutter) and now it works beautifully. Definitely firing stronger and faster. Thanks a lot, dude.

    ReplyDelete
  193. my recon plunger is abt to snap and i used the floor protecting padding was that the correct padding to use

    ReplyDelete
  194. Bacon Box,

    Well, there are many different types of floor protection padding so i've no idea what exact material or impact absorption properties are in the padding you used... but if you find that your plunger is going to break, then it just means that what you are using is not absorbing impacts sufficiently.

    You'll just have to keep testing various plunger padding material and find the best ones to use.

    ReplyDelete
  195. according to the package it was in it said floor savers which kind did u use

    ReplyDelete
  196. Bacon Box,

    As shown in my mod guide, i use Volkmar-Fix 20mm diameter padding material. It is a dense rubber/foam like material which is very soft and can compress flat easily.

    So far, i've found that brand and type of padding to be the most effective in protecting against plunger impacts.

    ReplyDelete
  197. I modded my gun and it is awesome!!! Also did the tagger dart mod. But is the shotgun mod something that would be achievable?

    ReplyDelete